Polyhydroxy acids (PHA) have emerged as a promising skincare ingredient, offering a gentler yet effective exfoliation compared to traditional alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). While AHAs and BHAs are known for their ability to slough away dead skin cells and unclog pores, they can sometimes be too harsh for sensitive skin. PHA, on the other hand, provide a more gradual and less irritating exfoliation, making them suitable for a wider range of skin types [1].

What Are PHAs?

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are a group of water-soluble acids derived from milk sugars or polyols. The most common PHAs include gluconolactone, lactobionic acid, and galactose. These compounds were first introduced in skincare in the 1990s as a way to offer exfoliation benefits similar to AHAs and BHAs but with less irritation.

How PHAs Work

PHAs work by gently loosening the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, allowing for easier removal and revealing the brighter, smoother skin beneath. Their larger molecular structure compared to AHAs and BHAs means that they penetrate the skin more slowly, resulting in a milder exfoliation process. This slower absorption allows PHAs to hydrate the skin while effectively exfoliating, making them suitable for sensitive skin types.

The Science Behind PHAs

The chemical structure of PHAs features multiple hydroxyl groups, which help them bond with water molecules. This hydrophilic nature means that, while they exfoliate, they also attract moisture, promoting hydration.

• Gluconolactone: This PHA has been shown in studies to not only exfoliate but also improve skin hydration and elasticity.
• Lactobionic Acid: Known for its powerful antioxidant properties, lactobionic acid is effective in protecting skin cells from oxidative stress, enhancing skin barrier function.

Benefits of PHAs

1. Gentle Exfoliation

One of the standout features of PHAs is their gentle exfoliating action. Unlike AHAs and BHAs, they are less likely to cause redness, irritation, or peeling. Thus, they are an excellent choice for those with sensitive skin, rosacea, or for people new to chemical exfoliants.

2. Hydration

Another key benefit is that PHAs not only exfoliate but also act as humectants. They draw in and lock moisture, thereby keeping the skin hydrated and plump. Consequently, this dual-action makes PHAs beneficial for dry or dehydrated skin types.

3. Antioxidant Properties

Many PHAs possess antioxidant properties, helping to neutralize free radicals. As a result, this reduces skin aging and damage, leading to improved texture and a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles.

4. Suitable for All Skin Types

While PHAs are particularly beneficial for sensitive skin, in reality, they can be used by all skin types. Moreover, their gentle nature makes them a versatile option for those who find AHAs and BHAs too harsh.

5. Improved Skin Texture and Tone

Regular use of PHAs can lead to a more even skin tone and smoother texture. By removing dead skin cells and promoting cell turnover, PHAs help reveal brighter and healthier-looking skin.

6. Compatibility with Other Actives

Notably, PHAs are compatible with various other active ingredients, making them easy to integrate into existing routines. For instance, they can be combined with retinoids, peptides, and niacinamide without causing irritation.

PHAs vs. AHAs and BHAs

Feature	AHAs (e.g., Glycolic Acid)	BHAs (e.g., Salicylic Acid)	PHAs (e.g., Gluconolactone)
Solubility	Water-soluble	Oil-soluble	Water-soluble
Penetration	Deep	Deep	Superficial
Exfoliation Level	Moderate to Strong	Strong	Mild
Skin Type Suitability	Dry to Normal	Oily/Acne-prone	Sensitive to All Skin Types
Hydration	Minimal	Minimal	High
Irritation Potential	Moderate to High	Moderate to High	Low

Choosing the Right Acid

• AHAs are best for those with dry or sun-damaged skin seeking surface-level exfoliation.
• BHAs are ideal for oily or acne-prone skin as they penetrate deeply into pores to remove oil and debris.
• PHAs are the gentlest option, suitable for sensitive skin types or anyone looking for hydration alongside exfoliation.

Incorporating PHAs into Your Skincare Routine

1. Choose the Right Products

PHAs are available in various formulations, including cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers. Look for products that contain gluconolactone or lactobionic acid, which are effective PHAs.

2. Start Slowly

If you are new to PHAs, it is best to start with products that have a lower concentration and use them a few times a week. As your skin gets used to the product, you can apply it more often. For instance, start with a product containing 5% PHA and observe how your skin responds.

3. Layering with Other Ingredients

PHAs can be layered with other active ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and peptides for enhanced benefits. However, be cautious when combining with stronger exfoliants like AHAs or BHAs, as this may lead to irritation.

4. Apply Sunscreen

Exfoliation, even when gentle, can increase skin sensitivity to the sun. Daily application of a broad-spectrum sunscreen is essential to shield your skin from the harmful effects of UV rays. Aim for SPF 30 or higher, reapplying every two hours if you are outdoors.

5. Observe Your Skin’s Response

Pay attention to how your skin reacts when incorporating PHAs. If you experience any irritation or discomfort, reduce usage or consult with a dermatologist. Keep track of your skin’s reaction in a journal to identify any changes or improvements.

Product Recommendations

Here are some notable products containing PHAs that you might consider incorporating into your routine:

1. Neostrata Ultra Smoothing Cream

This cream contains gluconolactone and is designed to smooth the skin’s surface while providing hydration.

2. Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum

Though primarily an AHA/BHA product, it also includes gluconolactone to enhance gentleness. This serum helps to smooth out fine lines, wrinkles, and textural irregularities.

3. The Ordinary Lactic Acid 5% + HA

While primarily an AHA, it includes PHAs to balance the exfoliation process. It hydrates and softens the skin while promoting a smoother texture.

4. Exuviance Daily Anti-Aging Peel

This at-home peel features a blend of PHAs and AHAs for gentle yet effective exfoliation without irritation.

5. SkinCeuticals LHA Cleanser

This cleanser combines PHA with salicylic acid for a gentle yet effective deep clean, making it perfect for oily skin types.

6. Pilgrim AHA BHA PHA Peeling Solution

Takeaway

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) offer a gentle and effective alternative to traditional AHAs and BHAs, making them an ideal choice for those with sensitive skin or anyone seeking a milder exfoliation option. Moreover, with their ability to hydrate and provide antioxidant benefits, PHAs can improve skin texture without the irritation associated with stronger acids. By incorporating PHAs into your routine, you can achieve a brighter, smoother complexion while maintaining overall skin health. Ultimately, whether you have dry, sensitive, or acne-prone skin, PHAs present a promising and versatile option worth exploring.

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